The following FAQ's relate to Log Jam.

Can I chink with Conceal?

Yes, if the chink line is smaller than 1 1/2” wide. Anything with a wider width should be filled with Chinker’s Edge or Log Jam.

Can I use Chinker's Edge in a Snorkler?

Yes!   Just keep an eye on the stator to check for wear. Chinker's Edge wears stators slightly more than Log Jam.

Can I use Log Builder or Conceal on a joint over 2 inches?

In general, no. Log Jam or Chinker's Edge would be better choices for gaps this wide. Log Builder and Conceal both work well on joints that range from 1/4” to 2” wide?

Can you stain over Log Jam / Log Builder?

Yes. Most stains can be successfully applied over Log Jam and Log Builder. However,the appearance of stain applied over chinking or caulking will almost always be different than the appearance of the same stain applied over wood. This is because of the differences in color and surface texture between such sealants and wood. So, before applying a stain to a large area where the stain is being applied to both sealants and wood, be sure you test a small area to confirm whether or not the appearance will be acceptable. Also, it is important to note that many (but not all) stains are based on resins or polymers that, when dry, are quite rigid and hard – far harder and far more rigid than either Log Jam Chinking or Log Builder sealant. This can lead to problems later as the chinking or caulking tries stretch to accommodate the inevitable movement that continually occurs between logs due to changes in temperature and moisture. Because the rigid coating cannot move nearly as easily as the sealant, it builds up localized areas of stress and can cause the surface of the sealant to develop shallow surface cracks, which, while not normally affecting the overall sealant performance, can lead to an unappealing appearance.

What about Log Jam’s 1 hour UL fire rating?

Log Jam is the only chinking to hold a 1 hour UL fire rating when applied in accordance with the Fire Resistance Directory Design No. UL519.

What can I use to clean up if I get messy with the Log Jam?

While still wet, Log Jam cleans up easily with water (either on hands, tools or wall surfaces). Once it completely dries it is much harder to remove, and often needs to be cut or scraped off. If it dries on your hands, you can usually remove it by just rubbing your hands together and it will roll up and off the skin.

What do you use to tool Log Jam / Log Builder?

A variety of tools and techniques can be used – whatever works best for you. Many Log Jam applicators use foam brushes (kept wet from pails of water) and steel or plastic trowels (of various widths). In both cases, it helps to lightly spray water (or a water/alcohol mix) on the surface of the chinking immediately before brushing or troweling. Similar tools and techniques can also be used with Log Builder, but frequently, for small joints, a wetted finger will also work well.

What is chinking? Where do I chink instead of caulk?

”Chinking” is now commonly thought of as a water-based, synthetic sealant that is textured like mortar and has considerable elasticity and flexibility. Twenty years ago, ”chinking” was generally thought of as Portland cement-based grout that was applied to the joints between logs, reinforced with metal lath. The new chinking products, such as Log Jam and Chinker's Edge, far out-perform the old type of chinking.

Chinking can be used in most places where caulk would be used, but chinking is more commonly used in large joints between logs and when the building owner wants the nostalgic look of old-fashioned, textured cement grout.

What is the difference between chinking and caulking?

“Chinking” in the log home industry has come to mean an elastic sealing material that looks like the old-fashioned Portland cement-based mortar in color and/or texture, used to seal the joints between logs. Chink lines can be fairly narrow or pretty wide. Backer rod or bond-breaking tape should always be used in back of the chink line in order to provide 2-point adhesion and allow the chinking to expand and contract to the maximum possible degree. Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge are both excellent chinking products.

“Caulking” is a similar material to “chinking”, but usually has no texture or a very light texture. Caulking also generally has more elasticity than chinking products. Because of this, caulking works better in smaller joints (i.e. ¼” to 2” wide). Caulking can be used to fill the horizontal cracks (called checks), create a continuous caulking line between the log rows, or as a stacker during construction.

What is the difference between Log Jam and Log Builder?

Log Jam Chinking and Log Builder Caulk are very similar in their chemical composition. The primary difference between them is that Log Jam is textured to simulate the appearance of traditional mortar.

What is the insulation R-value of the Chinking and Backer Rod? Sashco’s thermodynamic analysis of this question has revealed the following:

a) A 9” pine log has an overall R-value of about 11.2.
b) The overall R-value of Log Jam + Backer Rod + the dead air space between the lengths of Backer Rod is about 10.6.
c) The overall R-value of a log wall combining chinked joints and the logs themselves is about 11.1. So, when Log Jam is properly installed with backer rod it has virtually no detrimental effect on the overall R-value of the wall.

What should I use to fill checks / cracks?

First, it is important to realize that the most worrisome checks are those on the upper curvature of the logs – making them the most prone to collecting moisture, fungi spores, dirt and other contamination. Larger checks on the lower curvature – while not prone to collecting moisture – can still lead to air infiltration into the house and provide entry access to flies and other insects. It is also important to realize that for approximately the first 1-2 years – especially if the logs are relatively green to begin with – that the initial checks will continue to open up as the logs dry out. If this continual “opening up” is likely to be severe – which could cause any caulk or chinking to fail – then it should be understood that some sealant repair may be needed after the logs have come into moisture equilibrium with the climate of the building site. For checks that are about 1/4” and larger in width (which are large enough to accept round backer rod), they can be effectively sealed with such products as Log Builder caulking, or, for a more textured appearance, Log Jam Chinking. It is always best to perform the following steps when sealing checks with caulking or chinking (starting, of course, with appropriate weather!):

1) Make sure there is no standing water in the checks to begin with (otherwise, there is a great risk of rot and premature sealant failure. Either remove the standing water or let it evaporate away.

2) As part of the overall application of a wood preservative, like PeneTreat, to the surface of the logs, extra wood preservative should be applied into the checks that are to be sealed with caulk or chinking – then allowed to dry.

3) It is usually best to apply the stain that will be used over the general surface of the house to the inner lips of the checks to be caulked or chinked – if the stain is compatible with the caulk and chinking to be used. Such a stain can act as a primer for the caulk or chinking and can greatly improve adhesion, especially when the walls are subjected to very wet weather. [Note: If the inner “lips” of the checks are dirty or significantly weathered, then these “lips” (i.e., the surfaces of the check which will be in contact with the caulk or chinking) need to be cleaned, down to bare, “sound” wood – in order to insure good adhesion of the stain and/or the caulk or chinking. Such cleaning can be accomplished several ways (including power washing and hand-sanding), but cob-blasting with a Sashco Kernel is the fastest, easiest and surest way to do the cleaning.]

4) Install the appropriate round backer rod, to the proper depth. [Note: The depth of the sealant bead should be approximately 1/2 of the joint width. This guideline will dictate how deep to press the backer rod into the check.]

5) Apply the caulk or chinking into the check with good pressure, forcing the sealant into intimate contact with the inner lips of the check. Do not just passively lay the sealant into the check recesses, which will have a tendency to not let the caulk or chinking properly “wet out” the surface – leading to poor adhesion.

6) Then, using a putty knife, shaped piece of wood, or a finger, “tool” the bead to further force the sealant into intimate log contact. While tooling, scrape the excess sealant from the sharp edges of the check and remove any material that may have smeared over the surfaces of the adjoining logs with a wet rag or sponge. Note: Sashco is working on more improved ways of dealing with checks and cracks, and when available, these new methods will be described in full.

Will power washing damage my chinking?

Our experience with Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge over many years show that this is generally not a problem. If the Log Jam was applied properly to begin with, the power washing will have little or no effect on the chinking (except to perhaps clean it up and remove a little surface dirt and make it look a little more like new!). Do note, however, that It is important to make sure that you don’t focus the high pressure water spray right at the edge of the chinking or caulking because it is possible that you could begin to lift it.

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